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News > Features > 04/17/2012  

Wheel Lessons


04/17/2012

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By Ken Hart

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 Remember learning about shear, stretch, tension, and torque? Well, they all come into play when a car’s wheels turn.

It’s why we should never take short-cuts when it comes to changing tires and wheels.

Mistakes are easy enough to make, and I’ve seen it happen many times. When a wheel comes off a customer’s vehicle, it’s a very serious matter. Not only does it create an extremely dangerous situation on the road, but it can have dramatic repercussions for the shop that last touched those wheels.

At the very least it’s embarrassing and can cost you customers.

I’ll never forget the phone call I received from my wife after she was driving her friend’s car and the front wheel came off! I had done a service on this car for free… and I’d been in a hurry. Did I torque and clean the wheel nuts and mating surfaces correctly? I couldn’t recall because I was rushing to get everyone on their way. Something obviously went wrong!

With so much at risk when working on wheels, I thought it would be a good idea to brush up on the critical points of this important task.

If you’re lucky, the back of the mag will be clean and so will the drum or rotor surface. You can make good time when working on these cars.

But if you see a brown stain, well, that’s rust. And when it gets wet, it allows the torque to lessen. Left unattended, the wheel can get loose or even fall off. I use an air angle grinder with a Roloc cookie on it. We’ve all been warned not to use Roloc cookies for cleaning cylinder heads because they were destroying engines. But for this purpose they’re perfect, fitting in the tight areas that need cleaning, and giving the rear mounting surface a great finish.

Take a close look at the rim bead surface. There can be corrosion. Here in the Kootenays, we see a lot of it on the rim bead and around the valve stem. I use a wire cup wheel mounted to an angle grinder to clean these surfaces.

 

For the rotor surface, I like to use a big wire brush and a scraper. It takes a few minutes of work but you’ll get a good clean surface.

Finally, I use NeverSeize to coat the lug nuts. It will prevent galling of the threads and keep the center of the rotor or drum from corroding. If your customer gets a flat and needs to change a tire, they’ll have a fighting chance of getting the lug nuts and wheel off.

 

Now the most important part: torque. Apply too much torque and you break things. Apply too little and things fall apart. You need just the right amount… and for that you need the right tool. A good quality torque wrench is the only way to achieve accurate torque. Also, some WD40 spray or light machine oil will do an excellent job aiding in accurate torque.

You cannot torque a nut or bolt without oil. You simply won’t get an accurate torque reading. That’s why I suggest using NeverSeize on the lug nuts and the centre hole. Dry steel tends to gall under pressure, so you’ll get that squeaking noise when you tighten the lug nuts and you won't have an accurate torque.

 If the rim beads are pitted, you can service them in several ways. Some people use RTV silicone on the rim bead surface to ensure a good seal. Personally, I use tire-mounting grease. It works great, is cheap, easy to apply with a paint brush, and squishes into all the places it needs to go. It also protects the tire and the rim from corrosion where they come into contact.

Remember, if you have a customer who races towards stop signs or has frequent panic stops, the tire could move on the rim, and this will knock it out of balance. I tell customers to go easy on the brakes for a week or so, to allow the tire and rim to settle. Then it will be time to retorque the lug nuts and make sure everything looks good.

There are many things to remember, so take your time. And if the wheels require extra cleaning it’s absolutely legitimate to charge properly for your time and materials. Your customer will likely agree it is far better to be safe rather than sorry.

You don’t want to get a phone call like I did! Sharon, I’m still sorry about that wheel off.  It won’t happen again.

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Ken Hart is owner of HarTech Automotive in Kaslo, B.C. He is a member of the Canadian Technician Advisory Panel.

 
 
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June 14, 2012 - Rob B. says:
 I have also heard both sides of the clean and dry or light oil on wheel stud threads. Currently we are sticking with the clean and dry method and retorquing after 80 km. I have another question. When a wheel bolt is torqued properly it "stretches" the threads. Each time a bolt is stretched it must cause metal fatigue. How many times can a wheel stud be "stretched" before the stud will fail? This would happen if all the proper procedures and a calibrated torque wrench were used. In theory this failure could happen during wheel installation or any time after wheels installed. Is there a way to tell if the wheel stud was overtorqued previously? 
April 24, 2012 - DRAULICO says:
 Hi Ken: I read your article and have some issues. I would NEVER use Anti - sieze on wheel nuts/studs. Ford actually put out a video a couple of years ago regarding the wheel nuts and lubrication on the Super Duty line. It was very informative. They stressed that you should use 30 weight motor oil and add a couple of drops between the nut and captive washer. It has been many years now, so I may be mistaken/forgetful, but the M.O.T. stressed that wheel nuts were to be installed dry. This is on Heavy Duty vehicles. The two drops of oil rule ( like Ford recommends) was permitted. This was to prevent wheel - offs. I will have to check ( I should have checked before I posted my comment. Sorry for that. And if I am wrong I appologize as well.) my T.M.C. R.P. guide to see what the industry stance is. They are geared mainly to Heavy Duty vehicles tho. But I believe that they also recommend clean/dry wheel stud threads. I agree with your theory on the galling of the threads. However... Even when rebuilding an engine some O.E.M.s recommend/state that the threads must be clean and dry. Some recommend a drop of oil under the bolt head. Personally, I will go with the manufacturer's recommendations/procedures. I may go as far as to use light grade machine oil ( 3 in One) if I feel that the studs would benefit. But, as of yet I haven't been convinced of that. I do, however, agree that Anti - sieze should be used on the hub face. I also commend you on your cleaning of the inner rim face of rust/debris. I believe that if a torque wrench ( a calibrated one)is used and the wheel nuts are torqued to the specs then the customer should have NO issues removing the wheel nuts. This is only true if the hubcap/wheel nut covers are installed. If they are left off then the wheel nuts have NO CHANCE to prevent siezure. And as for the famous lugnuts with the built in chrome covers. If they are swollen then they get replaced. I do however have my doubts that a 4 way wheel wrench has the power/leverage to remove lugnuts. Even properly torqued ones. I feel that the lugnut wrench that comes with the vehicle should be able to remove properly torqued lugnuts. I am located in Ontario and am well versed on the effects of road de - icing chemicals/corrosion. In closing, if you can possible direct me to a manufacturer's info/wheel nut torque chart( the ones I have do not list lubricating the threads. But I may have missed that area/gotten it dirty.) that recommends Anti - sieze or motor oil to be used on the wheel stud threads I would be much obliged. P.S. I have done re - torques on wheel nuts after I have installed the wheels ( after a week or 160 K.M.) and have not come across any nuts that have backed off. 
April 20, 2012 - .Gord says:
 Ifa Wheel is torque right the first time it will not need to be retorqued again 
April 19, 2012 - hartech says:
 Well if Ontario states clean and dry , you may have mis read the act, Light oil or A type of grease is always the industry standard and if they are clcean and dry you WILL be replacing studs and nuts that were meant to last the life of the Vehicle, get back to me.....Ken 
April 19, 2012 - GOLTSHER says:
 Good artical except the never-sieze on the wheel nuts In Ontario safety inspections it starts that lugs nuts and studs should be clean and dry. We have also found lugs can be overtightened and stretch the studs if they have been lubricated 
April 18, 2012 - Tom Dixon says:
 hi great article on mounting tire and the importance of proper cleaning i am now retired and only do minor serve procedures for family here in Ont. when a car changes hand a govt. safety check is req. which i am not allowed to do anymore without a special licence so i go elswhere as a favourwhen i tell the mechanic whay the torque specs. are for the particular car isome times get a wierd look. keep up the good work. 
April 18, 2012 - Anonymous says:
 I'm sure most of us have had this issue! Even with new vehicles,or retorqued wheels becoming loose is an issue. I've noticed that most of these happen in "pothole" season where wheels/tires receive most abuse. 
April 17, 2012 - Anonymous says:
 CLEANING OF BOTH THE RIM FACE TO HUB CONTACT AREA AS WELL AS THE HUB FACE IS JUST AS IMPORTANT TO ENSURE A FLAT SQUARE MATING SERFACE WITH ANTI-SEIZE ON THE HUB FACE THEN PROPERLY TORQUED WILL ALWAYS ELIMINATE LOOSE WHEELS AFTER INSTALL. Perry G. Carey " MasterMechanic, Grimsby, ON. 
April 17, 2012 - MLIDSTONE says:
 We find that cleaning the wheels as described. then torque the wheels road test and re torque. since we started doing this no more loose wheels. but I wonder about the health effects of the dust off the wheels and hubs even with a dust mask 
April 17, 2012 - BaldEagle says:
 Glad to finally see an article that actually deals with the wheels coming loose problem properly. It is an issue that has been tossed around for a long time but this is the first article I've seen that gets it right!! The problem is caused by water and salt getting behind the aluminum rim causing a chemical reaction between the aluminum and the steel hub creating aluminum oxide (aluminum "rust"). This causes binding between the rim and the hub resulting in an improperly seated rim. I would add two things to the article though. First, make sure to clean inside the depression in the centre of the rim where the hub fits in as this is where the binding occurs. Second, be sparing with the amount of anti-seize or grease you use on the wheel or hub. Excess can be slung off while driving and collect on the brake rotors! 
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