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  <title>Shop Talk</title> 
  <description></description> 
  <link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/index.cfm?forumid=1</link> 
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		<title>O2 sensor question</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2426</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-09-05T14:30:47 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>dantheman</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>3</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[ was chatting with a fellow tech about O2 sensors and he mentioned at Chrysler tech school they were told to never modify/cut/solder or anything of that nature to the O2 sensor wiring<br />the reason they were told is that the ecm uses the O2 wires to get an air sample reading<br />maybe I missed something somewhere but this doesn't make sense to me<br />any of our hi tech tech's have any input on this ?<br /> ]]></description>
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		<title>2000 Focus 2.0 SOHC</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2421</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-08-27T11:13:52 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>novascotiatech</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[   Ok tech in our shop put in a used engine in the above car. Tried to start it, starter suddenly no good that was before customer brought it in, replaced starter, tried to start again, rolled fine however only runs on two cylinders, check at coil, no driver for one side, check at pcm again only one of the coil drivers is driving. So I know why its running on two, crank and cam sensors test ok, is it possible the pcm just toasted one of the drivers like that? As far as I know crank sensor is only thing that can stop a coil driver from the pcm, however the other coil driver is working fine. Anything else able to stop one of the two coil drivers from firing? <br />  It was running when came in just had a few rods about to bust out of the block. Any help would be cool, customer already has a starter extra on this bill, would hate to replace the pcm too!!! ]]></description>
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		<title>bmw BS!</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2420</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-08-26T18:26:32 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>jeffcompton</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>13</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[ Okay so I'd thought I'd post an issue Im having with a nightmare car in hopes that it may breathe some life back into this forum and maybe get some feedback and input from some of you gents who have more experience with these lumps then me!&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; So a new customer brings in his newly acquired 95&nbsp; BMW 325i 2.5 ltr in for a complaint of stalling and weird shifting,&nbsp; hesitation!&nbsp; It had been to muffler shop in TO before he moved here to kingston for the smae issues and they'd had recommended to him that it get a new 02 sensor,&nbsp; new MAF and new catalytic converter!&nbsp;&nbsp; So he purchased a new aftermarket MAF,&nbsp; not sure of the brand,&nbsp; a new standard brand 02 and had them installed by his buddy.&nbsp; Not sure how long the parts have been in or if it had any improvement after but regardless he's here.&nbsp; No new converter on the car as it was almost 1000 dollars parts and labour.&nbsp;&nbsp; I'd imagine at over 365 000kms on the odo it may very well need on but when I drove it yesterday at first it didn't seem to be gutless like a plugged converter it just had a ignition feeling misfire to it that you could drive through and the car would rev well.&nbsp; I scanned it with out solus and it had codes stored for ignition faults to every cylinder with the exception&nbsp;of&nbsp;#4.&nbsp; So I inspected the coils and found 5 newish looking aftermarket coils brand unknown on every cylinder but #4.&nbsp; So I swapped #4 for #1, cleared the dtcs and redrove the car!&nbsp;&nbsp; It now coded for cylinder #4 plus every other cylinder but cylinder #1 this time.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;So I told the boss and my findings and they ordered 5 new bremi/sti brand coils from Worldpac as the cost from them is much cheaper then my choice of dealer only for the coils.&nbsp; So today I cleaned the bosch plugs that were wet,&nbsp; reinstalled the plugs and the new 5 coils leaving the lone BMW coil in cylinder #1 and proceeded to try and drive the car!&nbsp; well it's now undrivable!&nbsp; It'll barely start and won't stay running and still has ignition codes popping up for every cylinder but the bmw coil in cylinder #1!&nbsp;&nbsp; Anybody been down this road or have any criticism or advice to extend at this point!&nbsp; Im thinking the jobber coils are junk and the local european oldtimer/guru agrees with me but before we wait and order 5 new ones from the closest BMW dealer which is Ajax can anyone think of anything else to look at or try?&nbsp; <BR><BR>Any sound outs would be great<BR><BR>Thanks<BR><BR>Jeff ]]></description>
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		<title>Equipment</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2413</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-07-29T07:32:57 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>Accurate</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[ Is anyone using Ranger tire changers,balancers or bendpak lifts? If so can you give any feedback? In rural New Brunswick, service for any equiptment is a problem so I'm looking for something other than JBC,Coates,Hunter,Dover etc.  ]]></description>
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		<title>ERROR Messages</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2404</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-07-09T09:32:59 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>Allan Haberman</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>7</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[ Has anyone else been having trouble getting onto the site lately. More often than not when I try to access the site I get an error message. Click on the short cut again and everything works fine. Maybe that's why there is so little activity lately. <img src="i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif" border="0">  ]]></description>
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		<title>Sorry Sorento</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2394</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-05-29T20:05:16 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>Accurate</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>7</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[ We have a 1993 Kia Sorento with 150,000k on it. 3.5L V-6 4X4 Auto.<br />The crankshaft bolt has broken 3 times in the last 3 years. The last time the customer, who is a heavy duty tech put the pulley back on and replaced the OE bolt with a different style that appears to hold torque properly.<br /> This thing will barely pull itself and is very sluggish.<br /><br />We've checked the valve timing, fuel pressure, cylinder compression and exhaust for restricton with no problems found. Cylinders # 1&3 show mis fire on scanner but the engine appears to run smooth.<br /> Key on-engine off the timing shows -88deg. When it starts-it shows -67deg but will go to -22deg when the engine is reved up. I don't know a lot about these things and would like to know if this timing is normal or if avyone has and other ideas. After starting the engine and disconnecting cam sensor, the timing does the same thing as before. ]]></description>
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		<title>1997 G2500 6.5 Diesel</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2391</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-05-24T18:06:25 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>novascotiatech</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>5</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[   Ah home tonight got a call from a good customer, ya thats right just a tech but some customers get my personal line <img src="i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif" border="0">. Thanks to the internet I have parts ordered right now for three of his vans that he is having issues with.<br /> The one that is a little puzzling is his diesel, came in no start about three months ago with a nasty list of codes, diagnosed fuel module as per the normal with these diesels , replaced and it ran like a dream. Every once in a blue moon however the van pops up two codes, and reverts to back up fuel mode (gets loud, poor starting/performance). The code is crank reference and boost below 5psi, however when we get it in its always working great, clear the codes he takes it and bingo pops in again in a few days.<br />  These two sensors do share a ground, so thinking one is pulling down both of them, anyone seen any issues with the diesels and crank/boost sensor codes poping in at once but problem recreating in the shop? Once it comes in going to look at both of them for possible issues but always like to have a set game plan before I start <img src="i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif" border="0"> ]]></description>
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		<title>caravan no start</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2389</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-05-19T14:24:21 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>darrell</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[ hello working on a 2000 caravan 3.8 no start,has no spark,no injector pulse,checked on scanner for cmp ckp says both work,tried changing pcm still no start,cranks fine,checked both ckp and cmp with vantage both are working proper,checked coils with scanner all are sparking checked injectors all are firing,this van also came from another shop after comong from some backyarders,thanks for help  ]]></description>
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		<title>2001 Sebring 2.7</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2388</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-05-17T21:25:43 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>bigblockbob</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>4</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[ I have a 2001 Sebring 2.7.<br /><br />This vehicle had a shifter interlock not operating sometimes.  Looking at diagrams the circuit goes from the fuse to the interlock solenoid then splitting to both the brake switch and PCM.<br /><br />Before I had a chance to hook up my scanner and see if the PCM was seeing a signal from the brake switch the interlock started to work normally.  So I took the chance and ordered a brake switch from Chrysler.  The vehicle worked perfectly for about 3 weeks.<br /><br />Today the customer informed me that yesterday the interlock started acting up.  He brought the vehicle in and it tested fine for me all day long.<br /><br />Does anybody have suggestions for me?<img src="i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif" border="0"> ]]></description>
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	<item>
		<title>It&apos;s the same as a what??</title>
		<link>http://www.canadiantechnician.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=9&amp;threadid=2385</link> 
		<pubDate>2010-05-06T10:47:59 -05.00</pubDate> 
		<dc:creator>ALLNUTS^nobolts</dc:creator>
   	    <slash:comments>10</slash:comments> 
		<description><![CDATA[ I'm sure we have all run into a job that we can not find parts for or a labour time because a certain make/model is not listed.<br /><br />so far we have learned that a chev epica is the same as a suzuki verona. and a chev optra equals a suzuki reno.<br /><br />Quote: (sprockets)<br />"even the boys at the dealer couldn't tell me what else it might resemble"<br /><br />does it exists somewhere a magical list, or do we all keep it secret?<br /><br />perhaps we can build it here. ]]></description>
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